I have just returned from a slightly odd five-day trip to the Isle of  Wight, house-sitting for a complete stranger that my wife had met  through Mumsnet.
My oldest son didn't want to go. After years of  being warned about the dangers of chatting to strangers online, he was  convinced that we were being lured to our deaths by a Belgian  psychopath. It was only when I casually mentioned that the house had a  Wii and Xbox that he began to change his tune.
The last time I  went to the Isle of Wight I was six months old. Several people commented  that very little had changed since my last visit. Of course this isn't  true, but the four miles of water that separates the Island (as the  locals refer to it) from the English mainland does give the place a very  separate identity, almost as if it inhabits an alternate reality.
It's not quite Britain in the 1950s, but it doesn't feel like the 21st century either.
Here are a few things I loved about the Isle of Wight:
1. The walk to the Needles Old Battery:

It's  almost a mile from the car park to the Victorian coastal defence at the  southwestern tip of the island - not a huge distance, but enough to  deter the 
hoi polloi from ruining the tranquil atmosphere.
2. The Isle of Wight Railway:

Where  else would you find a 1938 tube train in the middle of the English  countryside? This isn't a 'heritage' line for tourists, but a genuine  passenger service, using reconditioned London Underground rolling stock.
The  journey from Ryde begins in a long tunnel and for a minute, listening  to the the familiar clunks and whirs of the electric motors, it feels as  if you're on the District Line approaching Sloane Square. When the  train emerges into the English countryside, the juxtaposition of such  unlikely elements feels like a very strange dream:

London Underground stations look nothing like this.
Or this:

3. Red Squirrels:

You  can't see them, but they can see you. Unlike their big, brash American  cousins, who now dominate the mainland, the native British squirrel is  petite and discreet.  I had to wait patiently in some dense undergrowth  before I was rewarded with my David Attenborough moment: a red squirrel  (tiny little thing) resting on a branch, making a series of strange  squeals and clicks.
The next day I nearly ran one over.
I  expect the BNP like the Isle of Wight. It's almost entirely white  working class (I struggled in vain to find my favourite brand of  balsamic vinegar), with very few of those annoying, Guardian-reading  London types like me who push the property prices up with their art galleries  and organic cafes. Even the squirrels are thoroughly British.
4. The Roman Villa in Newport:

Actually  it's quite boring and I feel sorry for anyone who has got excited by  the brown sign announcing a 'Roman Villa', only to find themselves  looking at a floor. It's a very nice floor, with lots of impressive  mosaics, but it's not a villa. I'm sure that people have been prosecuted  for less misleading descriptions.
However, what I liked about  the Roman villa in Newport is its incongruous location, situated in a  dull-looking bungalow in a quiet residential road, a few doors down from  the house we were staying in. Apparently the villa strays into next  door's garden, but the previous owners didn't want to ruin their patio  and it remains buried to this day.
5. Osborne House

This  was Queen Victoria's favourite residence because it provided a  sanctuary from a world in which she was routinely "mobbed by crowds",  enabling her to enjoy a relatively normal life with her husband and  children.
The coast of mainland England is visible from the gardens, but reassuringly distant:

The interior of the house wasn't my cup of tea: hideously opulent furnishings and 
objets d'art,  complemented with badly-lit, poorly-executed oil paintings by forgotten  masters. It didn't help that I kept bumping into an annoying mother and  daughter, who made loud, confident pronouncements like
 "They didn't have magazines in the Victorian times." The daughter was probably ten years younger than me, but every time  we reached a staircase she wheezed and complained with each step.  Instead of advising her daughter to eat fewer doughnuts, the mother  agreed.
I had almost given up hope of seeing anything I liked,  but Queen Victoria's bedroom more than made up for the disappointment of  the rest of the house. To see the bed where Victoria died and look up  at the ceiling decorations that she must have stared at countles times  was very moving. I tried to imagine the scene - only 110 years ago - in  which the dying Queen was attended to by her servants, physician and  loved ones, but just as I started to lose myself, the mother and  daughter appeared:
"Oh yes, she was a very respectful lady..."Fortunately  they didn't stay long. But as they left, two attendants decided to  begin a detailed comversation about their dogs' health and the resulting  vet bills. I gave up.
One other thing I liked about Osborne  House was the gallery devoted to Indian nobles. It looked as if Queen  Victoria took her role as Empress of India very seriously, devoting  several rooms to portraits of maharajas and artifacts from the  subcontinent.
I had no idea that Victoria went to great pains to learn Urdu and a  display case showed a page from an exercise book in which she had  written several passages in the local script. Perhaps the recent memory  of the Indian Mutiny had prompted a more respectful attitude on the part  of the British.
But even if you don't like vulgar, excessively  ornate 19th century interiors, Osborne House is worth visiting for the  beauty of its grounds. The formal gardens had an idyllic, arcadian  quality; like a ruined Greek temple:

However, at the edge of the grounds through a gap in the trees, I caught a glimpse of my true arcadia:

6. Carisbrooke Castle:

There  isn't much to say about Carisbrooke Castle; it's just a beautiful place  with a wonderful panorama of the surrounding countryside. Charles I was  held prisoner here after Parliament had won the English Civil War and  although it can't have been a terribly happy time for him, at least he  had a room with a view:

After  exploring the grounds, I went to the tea shop and ordered a cup of tea  and a slice of cake (it's a rock n'roll life). Instead, I got a pot of  tea and a huge wedge of Victoria sponge. No wonder there's an obesity  crisis.
I've noticed that portions have doubled in size over the  last 20 years, with a standard packet of crisps going from 20g to 40g. I  can understand why this has happened: a manufacturer who sells a 15p  slice of cake for £1.70 can now sell a 30p wedge of Victoria sponge for  £3.40, making almost £2 additional profit for doubling the portion.
But  the end result is that I'm stuck on a staircase behind a 30 year-old  woman who is wheezing like a consumptive war veteran. It's not good.
In  the tea shop, I was joined by a couple who spoke in a loud nasal accent  about how "taahribly entrahsted" they were in the Castle's past:
"In  Tennesse we met a chap who claimed that he was descended from one of  the signatories of Charle's I's death warrant. He seemed convinced that  because of this he wouldn't be allowed into England and nothing we said  could change his mind..."There was a pause.
"Still, perhaps he wouldn't be let in for other reasons! Hwah, hwah, hwah!"I was happy in Carisbrooke Castle, but all my sons wanted to do was go  back to the house and continue playing with the Wii. My youngest son  complained that 
"you're taking us out all the time. This is the worst day of my life since the start of the world." It was very frustrating to realise that all my sons wanted to do was  stay in and play computer games. I'd vaguely entertained the idea of  buying a Wii - I'd fallen for the marketing spiel about getting families  to play together, but it's bollocks. All of these games suck the  imagination dry, replacing original thought with predetermined scenarios  and ghastly soundtracks that repeat the same leitmotifs, 
ad nauseum.
Worst of all, I was also becoming addicted to the Wii. When, on the last  morning, I realised that I was the first person to wake up, I crept  downstairs to see if I could beat the high score in Wii Sports. I'd  developed a genuine dislike of a character called Martin, who kept  stopping me get to the next level. I had a score to settle with him:

But  I haven't completely lost hope. I'd say that the moment when we were  all at our happiest was on a summer's evening, walking along the cliff  tops to the Old Needles Battery. Away from the distractions of the Wii  and the temptations of 'family' theme parks (our one vist to a theme  park lasted for a mere 15 minutes, as a girl vomitted in front of us  within 10 seconds of arriving and my son got stung by a bee), we managed  to find our 'mojo'.
Sometimes the best things in life are free.