Hertford - Not a Dump

During the last two years I've become used to driving through drab, postwar housing estates, on my way to collect or deliver books. For some reason, I usually seem to end up in Bedfordshire or Hertfordshire. I've no idea why.

When I learned, last week, that I would have to drive to Hertford, my heart sank. More ring roads and concrete. More people who look as if they are on their way to a day centre.

But I was wrong. Hertford is rather nice:

The centre of Hertford had a very strong 'market town' feeling - lots of quirky old buildings, with hidden alleys and courtyards. I also noticed that the people didn't swing their arms when they walked, which is always a good sign.

Perhaps the woman in the distance is on her way to a day centre, but I'm sure they have a better class of jigsaw puzzle there.

Castles are always a bonus and this river ends in a pleasant weir, right next to an arts centre with a chi chi cafe.

I've forgotten who the statue is of. No-one I've ever heard of.

I noticed that several signs pointed the way to a place called 'Bengeo'. Bengeo! What sort of a name is that for a town and why haven't I heard of it until today? Even buses were going there.

It all sounds rather foreign - place names should end with a consonant. But apparently Bengeo is of ancient provenance, so I take it all back.

Bengeo's main claim to fame is that it is the birthplace of Captain W. E. Johns - the author of the Biggles series of books, with titles that include Biggles Gets His Men, Biggles Takes It Rough, Biggles and the Poor Rich Boy and Biggles Fails To Return.

There are 98 Biggles titles in all, but no Biggles of Bengeo, which is rather a shame.

I liked what I saw of Hertford and tried to ignore the hideous car park and some of the less inspiring architecture on the outskirts. The centre would have been even nicer without the constant roar of traffic from the ring road, but the same could be said of most towns.

I went to Hertford expecting bland uniformity and concrete ugliness. Instead, I found character and charm. I hope I have the chance to make a return visit.